Find Roofing Contractors and Roofing Companies Near You

Browse our roofing contractor directory by state. Each state page lists verified roofers, top cities, and local roofing considerations.

Residential roofers handle single-family homes, townhomes, and small multi-family properties. Most projects involve asphalt shingles, architectural shingles, or upgrade systems like standing-seam metal, composite, or tile. A good residential roofer carries state licensing, $1M+ general liability, and active workers' comp.

• · Asphalt and architectural shingle install & replacement
• · Leak detection, flashing, and chimney repair
• · Gutter, soffit, and fascia work
• · Ventilation, ridge vents, and attic airflow

Commercial roofers work on warehouses, retail, multi-tenant, and industrial buildings. Most commercial roofs are low-slope and use single-ply membranes — TPO, PVC, EPDM — or built-up and modified bitumen. Look for crews with manufacturer certifications (GAF, Carlisle, Firestone, Versico) and OSHA-30 trained foremen.

Industrial roofing companies handle manufacturing plants, distribution centers, refineries, and large-footprint facilities — often 100,000+ sq ft single-ply or built-up systems with rooftop equipment, fall-protection requirements, and tight production-schedule constraints. Look for contractors with OSHA-30 foremen, crane and lift capacity, and documented experience on tax-paying industrial assets.

Roof repair covers leaks, missing shingles, damaged flashing, failed sealant, chimney and skylight reseals, and small areas of storm or impact damage. Most repairs run $400–$2,500 depending on roof pitch, access, and the underlying decking. If damage covers more than ~25% of the roof or the deck is compromised, replacement is usually the better long-term value.

Full roof replacement typically runs $8,000–$25,000 for residential asphalt and significantly more for metal, tile, or commercial systems. A complete replacement includes tear-off, deck inspection, underlayment, ice-and-water shield, new shingles or membrane, flashing, ventilation, and disposal. Always confirm warranty terms — manufacturer (material) and workmanship (labor) coverage are separate.

Emergency roofers respond 24/7 to active leaks, storm damage, tree impacts, and wind-lifted shingles. They tarp the roof to stop water intrusion, document damage for insurance, and schedule permanent repair. If your roof is actively leaking, prioritize crews with same-day tarping and insurance-claim experience.

Metal roofs last 40–70 years and outperform asphalt in wind, fire, and hail. Standing-seam, stamped metal shingles, and corrugated panels each require specialized install — clips, panel forming, and flashing details differ from shingle work. Hire a metal-certified contractor rather than a general roofer for these systems.

Flat and low-slope roofs need a contractor experienced with single-ply membranes (TPO, PVC, EPDM), modified bitumen, or built-up roofing. Drainage, seam welding, and parapet flashing are the failure points to inspect. Common on commercial buildings and modern residential designs.

Most states require roofing contractors to hold an active license, general liability insurance, and workers' comp coverage. Hiring an unlicensed roofer can void your homeowners insurance, transfer worker-injury liability to you, and disqualify your roof from manufacturer warranties. Every contractor in our directory is verified for active licensing where required.

Certification is separate from licensing. Manufacturer certifications — GAF Master Elite, Owens Corning Platinum Preferred, CertainTeed SELECT ShingleMaster, Carlisle Authorized Applicator, and similar programs — mean the contractor has completed factory training, carries enhanced insurance, and can offer extended workmanship warranties (often 25–50 years) that non-certified installers cannot. For metal, TPO, and PVC systems, manufacturer certification is the strongest single quality signal you can verify.

Roofing costs vary by region — labor rates, material delivery, code requirements, and storm risk all push prices up or down. Use our state-specific calculators to estimate your project before requesting quotes.

1. 1. Pull the state license. Search your state contractor licensing board (e.g. CSLB in California, HICPA in Pennsylvania, ROC in Arizona). Confirm the license is active, in the roofer's legal name, and covers roofing scope.
2. 2. Request current insurance certificates. Ask for a certificate of insurance (COI) showing general liability ($1M+) and workers' comp issued in the last 30 days. Call the insurance agent listed on the COI to confirm the policy is active.
3. 3. Verify the business identity. Check the state Secretary of State business registry, BBB profile, and physical office address. Avoid contractors with only a P.O. box or that operate exclusively under a personal name.
4. 4. Look up manufacturer certifications. GAF, Owens Corning, CertainTeed, Carlisle, and Firestone all publish free contractor lookups. A claimed certification that doesn't appear in the manufacturer's directory is a red flag.
5. 5. Check court and lien records. Search the county clerk for mechanic's liens, judgments, or active litigation against the company in the last 3 years.
6. 6. Confirm permits will be pulled. Reputable roofers pull permits in their own name. Anyone asking the homeowner to pull the permit is shifting liability away from themselves.

• · What is your state license number and how long have you held it?
• · Can you send a current certificate of general liability and workers' comp insurance?
• · Are you certified by the manufacturer of the roof system you're installing?
• · Will you pull the permit in your company name?
• · Who is the on-site foreman, and will they be on the job every day?
• · Do you subcontract the labor, or are crews employees?
• · What is the workmanship warranty — length, what's covered, and what voids it?
• · What is the manufacturer's material warranty, and does my install qualify for the extended version?
• · How do you handle hidden decking damage or unexpected change orders?
• · What's the payment schedule? (Never pay 100% up front — 10–30% deposit is standard.)
• · Can you share 3 references from local jobs completed in the last 6 months?
• · How will you protect landscaping, gutters, AC units, and siding during tear-off?

1. 1. Collect 3 written quotes. Verbal estimates aren't comparable — insist on itemized scopes.
2. 2. Verify license and insurance. Check your state's licensing portal and request current certificates of insurance.
3. 3. Compare materials, not just price. A cheaper quote with builder-grade shingles can cost more across its life than a mid-grade upgrade.
4. 4. Confirm warranties. Ask for manufacturer (material) and workmanship (labor) terms in writing.
5. 5. Check reviews and references. Recent local jobs are more telling than aggregate star ratings.
6. 6. Read the contract carefully. Tear-off, deck repair allowances, change-order pricing, and payment schedule should all be explicit.